Wine Reviews

By The Reluctant Somm

THE HILT, ESTATE PINOT NOIR, STA RITA HILLS - 2021

TASTING NOTES

Sight in the Glass: Slightly darker than expected in the glass, displaying a hue reminiscent of bing cherry.

On the Nose: The wine greets the nose with bright, crunchy fruit and subtly carries the distinctive salinity characteristic of Sta. Rita Hills.

Tasting Notes:The palate boasts mouthwatering acidity harmoniously intertwined with gentle, well-balanced tannins. Echoing the aroma, the palate showcases vibrant red fruit and delicate earthy notes. Captivating blend of complexity, offering a myriad of flavors to savor - from enchanting earthy nuances to delightful red and black fruits.

PRODUCER NOTES

Nestled in the heart of the Sta. Rita Hills Valley, The Hilt Winery crafts exceptional wines that embody the unique character of this challenging yet rewarding terroir. The valley's east-west orientation and proximity to the ocean create a complex tapestry of microclimates, with The Hilt's prized vineyards located in the northern-facing, ocean-influenced quadrant.

At Rancho Salsipuedes, the home of The Hilt wines, vineyards are planted on land situated nearly 13 miles from the ocean, offering a diverse range of altitudes, aspects, soil types, and microclimates. This patchwork of vineyard parcels allows winemaker Matt Dees to select grapes that showcase distinctive styles and personalities.

Despite the diversity of Salsipuedes, the property is united by three essential elements: poor soils that encourage deep root growth, powerful winds and a cool maritime climate that promote slow ripening and acidity retention, and low-vigor vines that yield concentrated, complex grapes. These factors combine to define the essence of Salsipuedes and the exceptional quality of The Hilt wines.

Through meticulous vineyard management and a commitment to showcasing the unique characteristics of the Sta. Rita Hills, The Hilt Winery produces wines that are a true reflection of this remarkable region.

WINE RATINGS

  • At a retail price of $50 a bottle, this sits at the high side for wines from the region. It’s a great wine but there’s lots of those available now a days from this region of the world.

  • I enjoy this wine and think it does a great job showcasing the region but I do feel like the alcohol is a bit higher than you’d expect from many producers in the area. Wish it was a bit dialed back but besides that a great wine.

  • I enjoy this wine quite a lot but as mentioned above, it’s not inexpensive and the ABV is a bit high for me.

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS

This wine could be a great wine pairing with a Mushroom Ragu due to its earthy and slight herbaceous characteristics. The herbs and acidity also lends itself to complementing Roasted Turkey. Or for a charcuterie & cheese board, look no further than a Brie or Camembert cheese.

PASSOPISCIARO ‘PASSOROSSO’, ETNA ROSSO SICILY - 2020

Sight in the Glass: A light, slightly brickish hue, characteristic of Nerello Mascalese, graces this wine. It displays numerous legs that move quickly. 

On the Nose: Moist stones, cool menthol, piquant green peppercorns, and sun-dried red fruits fill the nose. Despite its high alcohol content, this wine beckons for continued olfactory exploration. Its complex bouquet unfolds with each inhalation, revealing a delightful hint of olives that adds to its allure.

Tasting Notes: The wine delights the palate with its generosity. It shines brightly, enriched by abundant acidity, resulting in a vivacious experience. It features excellent salty nuances that harmonize beautifully with a robust tannin framework. The experience is akin to savoring just-ripened blueberries and the season's first cherries. Additionally, it presents a remarkable eucalyptus note, adding complexity to the palate, yet it remains refreshingly light.

TASTING NOTES

PRODUCER NOTES

Passopisciaro, a renowned winery on Mount Etna's slopes in northeastern Sicily, was founded in 2000 by Andrea Franchetti. It has significantly contributed to the region's viticultural revival and brought international acclaim to Etna's wines.

Franchetti started by renovating an old farm and its cellars at about 1,000 meters altitude near Passopisciaro. He revived ancient vine terraces on the volcano's northern slopes, replanting with a high density of 12,000 vines per hectare on the unique volcanic soil.

The winery focuses on the native Nerello Mascalese grape, showcasing its versatility across different altitudes and terrains through a series of single-vineyard wines. It also produces wines from Chardonnay, Petit Verdot, and Cesanese d'Affile grapes.

The high-altitude vineyards enjoy significant day-night temperature swings, extending the growing season and enhancing the wines' complexity and depth. The volcanic soil, refreshed by lava flows, adds distinct mineral qualities to the grapes, leading to the concept of contrade, or unique terroirs.

Passopisciaro produces nine wines, six of which are single-varietal Nerello Mascalese. The Passorosso offers a comprehensive representation of the grape, while the five Contrada wines—Contrada C, P, G, S, and R—highlight different vine ages, lava flows, and altitudes.

Noteworthy wines include the Franchetti, a powerful blend of Petit Verdot and Cesanese d'Affile, and the Passobianco, a 100% Chardonnay that exhibits a minerally, aromatic profile akin to fine Burgundian whites. Since 2018, the exclusive Chardonnay cru, Contrada PC, from a small, high-altitude parcel, has added to the portfolio.

WINE RATINGS

  • This wine carries a premium price tag, which is noteworthy given it doesn't reach the esteemed Contrade level. While there are wineries pricing their Cru wines similarly, it's important to emphasize that this comes from a benchmark producer. It's challenging to envision a superior appellation wine, yet it's clear that the cost reflects the quality you receive.

  • If there's one element that might detract from its status as a classic, it would be the initially perceived softness of the tannins. However, once your palate acclimates to the wine's acidity, the presence of tannins becomes more appreciable. In my view, this exemplifies quintessential Nerello Mascalese.

  • If cost weren't a concern, this wine would frequently grace my dinner table. Its exceptional quality stands out, especially considering the numerous challenges of 2020. I'm eagerly anticipating how it evolves with more tasting throughout today and tomorrow.

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS

Dried meats and various Salami make for effortless pairings. The wine's acidity complements the fattiness perfectly. For a complete meal, consider Pesto Pasta or perhaps Grilled Red Meat, such as a ribeye. Additionally, Brie Cheese presents a convenient, quick-choice option from the store.

Tiberio Montepulciano D’Abruzzo, Abruzzo Italy - 2021

Sight in the Glass: Deep purple with rapid tears, suggesting a high alcohol content.

On the Nose: A blend of crushed purple and red fruits, with a noticeable alcohol presence and hints of bramble. The aroma evokes boysenberries and fruit compote, rounded off with a distinctive sage character.

Tasting Notes: Upon the first sip, this wine presents a rich fullness, bursting with flavors of plum and blackberry. The tannins are robust yet seamlessly integrated, creating a harmonious structure. It envelops the palate with luscious fruitiness, complemented by a refreshing hint of eucalyptus. This wine strikes the perfect balance - it's neither overwhelming nor underwhelming, but just right.

TASTING NOTES

PRODUCER NOTES

Nestled beneath the majestic Majella and Gran Sasso mountains in Abruzzo, Italy, Azienda Agricola Tiberio blends old-world charm with a new-world vision. The journey began in 2000 when Riccardo Tiberio stumbled upon an ancient plot of 60-year-old Trebbiano Abruzzese vines, a rarity in the region. Realizing the value of these vines, Riccardo set a new course for his family.

With deep wine industry knowledge and an understanding of Abruzzo's terroir, Riccardo created the 31-hectare Tiberio estate. He carefully chose indigenous varieties like Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Trebbiano Abruzzese, Aglianico, Pecorino, and Moscato di Castiglione to match the land's unique soils.

In 2008, Riccardo's children, Cristiana and Antonio, took over. Cristiana, a chemistry graduate with extensive international experience, became the winemaker. Her training in Champagne, the Loire Valley, the Mosel, and Chablis equipped her to produce wines with remarkable structure and minerality.

Tiberio stands out for its dedication to expressing Abruzzo's terroir. Its old vine Trebbiano Abruzzese produces wines of great depth and complexity. Cristiana's expertise results in mineral-rich whites and vibrant reds that have earned global recognition.

From Cugnoli's hillsides to the world stage, Tiberio winery showcases the impact of vision, expertise, and love for the land. Each vintage redefines Italian winemaking, one exceptional bottle at a time.

WINE RATINGS

  • I frequently discuss the financial barriers to exploring wine regions, and in my view, Abruzzo represents a low cost of entry. Here, you can find exceptional wines that are significantly more affordable than comparable options from other areas. Often overlooked, except for top producers such as Valentini and Emidio Pepe, Abruzzo serves as an economical choice for enthusiasts looking to enjoy quality wines on a budget.

  • It's challenging to categorize this as a classic, considering the Montepulciano of the past (at least what was imported) was significantly less complex. Overall, this wine possesses a power that may surpass what most would anticipate when selecting this variety.

  • I'd enjoy this wine alongside a sumptuous steak dinner. It aligns more with my preferences than many Napa Cabernets. However, I seldom indulge in wines of this heft. It's an exceptional wine, worthy of high regard, yet not my choice for everyday drinking.

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS

This wine pairs wonderfully with Radiatore Bolognese, as its structure is perfect for embracing the sauce. Additionally, it would complement Smoked Duck beautifully, offering a delightful contrast to more gamey flavors. To round off the pairing, a slice of Pecorino cheese, with its sharp taste and firm texture, would enhance the wine's character nicely. For a fun night too this wine would pair great with a Hamburger.

Bodegas Vatan ‘Triton’, Tinto de toro, Toro Spain - 2021

Sight in the Glass: Dark purple, it looks like plums in a glass with a slight redness near the meniscus. Big dramatic legs, an ode to the higher ABV of the wine.

On the Nose: Fresh berries and baking spice. On the nose the alcohol is there but well integrated all things considered. Violets and dried flower peddles. Also a slight graphite quality. Maybe a touch of dill.

Tasting Notes: On the palate the wine starts off well balanced and nuanced and as the palate develops a bit more of the ripe fruit profile shows. The tannin is medium and seems to come more from oak than the grape itself. A powerful wine that quite well integrated in its youth. Persistent tannins add to a long lasting palate that makes me want to enjoy some red meat over a grill.

TASTING NOTES

PRODUCER NOTES

Bodegas Vatan is a winery located in the D.O. Toro region of Spain, founded in 2010 as a personal project of Jorge Ordóñez. The winery is dedicated to producing powerful, elegant, and mineral expressions of the indigenous Tinta de Toro grape, Spain's original clone of Tempranillo.

The crown jewel of Bodegas Vatan is the Finca Los Quemados vineyard, planted in 1900 with ungrafted Tinta de Toro vines. This vineyard, situated near the small village of Vallaester de Abajo, boasts extremely poor sandy soils with a thin layer of red clay beneath, crucial for water retention. The high altitude of 2,400ft results in significant temperature swings between day and night, contributing to the grapes' unique character.

The winemaking process at Bodegas Vatan is meticulous and traditional. Hand-harvested in mid-October, the grapes are sorted and transferred as whole berries to open-top, temperature-controlled stainless steel fermenters. Fermentation begins spontaneously with indigenous yeasts.

With a commitment to dry farming and eschewing the use of herbicides, pesticides, and fungicides, Bodegas Vatan crafts wines that showcase the distinctive terroir of D.O. Toro and the potential of the Tinta de Toro grape.

WINE RATINGS

  • This wine is quite complex and more than just ripe fruit like some Toro wines can be on occasion. It would impress even a more seasoned wine drinker at a fraction of the cost of other wines that drink in this style

  • This wine epitomizes the distinct characteristics of Toro wines, boasting bold fruit flavors and a higher alcohol content. The oak usage aligns well with regional standards. Given its price point, it meets all the expectations one would have for a wine from this region, leaving little else to be desired

  • A bit high ABV for me personally. The wine again speaks to the its region but it’s a little richer than I tend to gravitate towards. I think it’s great for anyone hoping to enjoy something in the fuller style and maybe looking for more fruit profile. A great gateway wine for new world Cabernet drinkers.

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS


Grilled red meats, mushrooms, and other savory dishes pair wonderfully with this wine's rich fruit and tannin profile. Its acidity complements richer foods beautifully. It would pair excellently with Manchego cheese, offering a delightful choice for those looking to enhance their culinary experience. Wild card pairing would be some Chicken Arepas!

TYLER WINERY, CHARDONNAY, SANTA BARBARA COUNTY- 2022

Sight in the Glass: Light yellow with flecks of green, slow tearing for domestic Chardonnay.

On the Nose: Green and Golden Delicious apples, a touch of butter, and apricots. Maybe a bit of bay leave on the nose as well.

Tasting Notes: Featuring a subtle crunchiness from the salt character, complemented by a delightful richness thanks to the malolactic fermentation. The palate is graceful with flavors of wet rock and yellow apple. The wine's excellent acidity is beautifully balanced by a touch of richness.

TASTING NOTES

PRODUCER NOTES

Tyler Winery: Crafting Elegant Wines with a Sense of Place

Founded in 2005 by Justin Willett, Tyler Winery is a small, winemaker-owned operation dedicated to producing elegant and honest wines that express the unique character of Santa Barbara's historic vineyards. With a focus on Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, Justin works closely with growers to source fruit from renowned sites such as Sanford & Benedict in the Santa Rita Hills.

Central to Tyler Winery's philosophy is the belief that great wines are made in the vineyard. The team is committed to organic farming practices, hand-harvesting grapes at night, and meticulous sorting to ensure only the best fruit makes it into the winery. In the cellar, native yeast fermentations and judicious use of oak allow the nuances of each site to shine through.

The recent acquisition of the Mae Vineyard in the heart of the Santa Rita Hills marks an exciting new chapter for Tyler Winery. This estate vineyard, with its marine soils and cool ocean influence, provides the ideal conditions for growing Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Syrah of exceptional quality.

With a modern approach grounded in classic techniques, Tyler Winery crafts wines of delicacy, balance, and aromatic purity – honest expressions of the unique terroir that defines Santa Barbara's wine growing region.

WINE RATINGS

  • This Chardonnay from Santa Barbara County seems to be priced on the higher end. However, its exceptional quality justifies the cost, although it's slightly more expensive for an appellation wine.

  • This possesses all the delightful cooler characteristics I admire in Santa Barbara Chardonnay, yet this vintage features slightly less salinity, which has always been one of my favorite aspects of both the region and Tyler as a winery.

  • I love how lean and rich this wine is at the same time. For me if money wasn’t an issue this is the style of California Chardonnay I’d want all the time. While previous vintages have been a bit more lean I do love this wine.

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS

Oysters, sunshine, and wonderful companionship. Now, picture savoring fresh oysters complemented by the subtle salinity of this wine—a match made in heaven. The wine's richness harmonizes beautifully with either Brie or herbed goat cheese. Moreover, the wine's crisp acidity makes it the perfect partner for a sumptuous Chicken Francese, elevating the pairing to an experience.