June Wine Reviews

By The Reluctant Somm

GREEN & REED, CHILI’S MILL VINEYARD ZINFANDEL, NAPA - 2018

From Napa Valley, Green & Red Winery is more than just a vineyard—it's a testament to a legacy steeped in history, passion, and an unwavering commitment to excellence. Founded in 1977 by Jay Heminway, the story of Green & Red begins in the vibrant cultural landscape of 1960s Berkeley. Amidst the free speech movement and anti-war protests, Jay and his friends discovered a renewed appreciation for local, authentic food and wine. This passion led Jay to the hardscrabble property in the Vaca Mountain Range, where he stumbled upon century-old vines from the old Rancho Catacula and began planting Zinfandel and other varieties.

Today, Green & Red is renowned for its state-of-the-art amenities, breathtaking views, and exclusive location. The winery boasts three distinct vineyards: The Chiles Mill Vineyard, situated at 800-1000 feet above sea level; the Catacula Vineyard, sitting at 1200-1400 feet and home to a vine dating back to the late 1800s; and the Tip Top Vineyard, perched at 1800-2000 feet with panoramic views of Napa Valley. Green & Red's estate-grown wines are not only enjoyed by its patrons but also by esteemed friends in the wine community like Biale Vineyards, Scribe, Brown Estate, and Ridge Vineyards.

Under the stewardship of Jay's daughter, Tobin Heminway, along with her husband Ray Hannigan and their dedicated team, Green & Red continues to thrive. The winery's commitment to quality and tradition is evident in every bottle, making it a cherished name in the world of fine wine. From supplying the house wine to the legendary Chez Panisse for over 35 years to collaborating with top winemakers, Green & Red Winery stands as a beacon of peace, love, and exceptional Zinfandel.

Sight in the Glass: A deep red to purple hue with quick streaks running down the side of the glass.

On the Nose: Aromas of red cherry, fennel, raisins, and wet stone. Despite the presence of alcohol, the nose remains relatively subtle.

Tasting Notes: Hints of white pepper, rich fruit, and a slightly smoky meat character define this wine. It features abundant berries, wet stone notes, and a touch of meatiness. Plush, ripe fruit lingers at the corners of your palate, complemented by nuances of stewed tomato. Supple tannins and a plethora of fresh fruit conclude with a refreshing, cooling finish.

TASTING NOTES

PRODUCER NOTES

WINE RATINGS

  • Powerful, complex Napa wine for under $50 retail? It must be Zin. An added bonus is its age, making it a standout in the category. While Cabernets are transitioning to 2021 and some Zins are already moving into 2022, it's refreshing to find a domestically aged option. Though it might be pricey for a daily purchase, it’s an excellent choice to impress your friends.

  • This wine exemplifies the best of Napa Zinfandel, showcasing vibrant purple fruit and subtle raisin notes from veraison. It strikes a perfect balance, not overly oaked nor too sweet, eloquently conveying the essence of its grape and origin.

  • This is an excellent wine, and if you enjoy Zinfandel, it’s a must-try on your journey. Personally, I find its high alcohol content (15.2%) a bit overwhelming, which seems to be the norm for many Zinfandels these days. While I would happily accept a glass if offered, Zinfandel isn’t typically my go-to daily drink.

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS

Blue cheese bacon burger, meat lovers pizza—both are delicious options. Aside from the aforementioned blue cheese, these dishes could also pair quite well with aged cheddar. The rich, tangy flavor of the cheddar complements the savory, smoky taste of the bacon and the diverse meats on the pizza, creating a delightful and satisfying culinary experience.

HILLICK & HOBBS RIESLING, FINGER LAKES NEW YORK - 2021

Hillick & Hobbs Winery was founded by renowned winemaker Paul Hobbs with the singular vision of creating world-class Riesling wines that rival their European counterparts. Deeply rooted in the Finger Lakes region, the winery is named after Paul’s parents, Joan Hillick and Edward Hobbs, who first met while attending Cornell University. Inspired by his childhood experiences growing up on a family farm in Niagara County and his father's passion for viticulture, Paul embarked on a lifelong journey in wine. This journey led him to UC Davis, where he developed a profound appreciation for German Rieslings, and eventually back to New York, where he recognized the Finger Lakes' unique potential as a premier Riesling-producing region.

The journey to establish Hillick & Hobbs Winery involved a rigorous search for the perfect site, culminating in the discovery of a property south of Hector Falls in 2013. The site boasted striking similarities to Germany's Mosel region, with its steep slopes and hard slate soils—ideal conditions for growing high-quality Riesling grapes. Over nearly a decade, Paul and his younger brother, David Hobbs, transformed the 78-acre estate on the southeastern banks of Seneca Lake into an exemplary vineyard dedicated to this noble grape. The vineyard’s high-density plantings and challenging 55-degree gradients necessitate meticulous, labor-intensive hand-farming practices, emphasizing sustainability and quality.

The result is a testament to Paul’s dedication and the region’s potential. Hillick & Hobbs Estate stands as a beacon of excellence in the Finger Lakes, producing Rieslings that reflect the terroir’s distinct characteristics while pushing the boundaries of modern viticulture. Certified under New York Sustainable Winegrowing, the estate's commitment to careful land stewardship ensures that each bottle of Hillick & Hobbs Riesling is a pure expression of the vineyard's unique geography and history.

Sight in the Glass: Relatively clear in color with a subtle green tint, featuring numerous moderately fast legs.

On the Nose: Even before lifting the glass, the aroma of this wine captivates me. Notes of honey, pears, white flowers, and wet stone fill the air.

Tasting Notes: The wine has a bit more weight than I’d expect, but it boasts impressive complexity. Without this weight, the acidity might be overpowering; however, here it is well-integrated. The palate reveals ripe stone fruits with minimal sweetness, staying true to its dry nature. It contains about 5.4 grams per liter of residual sugar, which is nicely highlighted. As the wine warms, it develops a subtle green tea character.

TASTING NOTES

PRODUCER NOTES

WINE RATINGS

  • This wine is exquisite, though not budget-friendly. While it sets a high standard for the region, I enjoy it immensely. Ideal for a Riesling enthusiast seeking something novel, it’s worth noting that this bottle is pricier than many from Germany, Austria, and France.T

  • On the nose, this wine is unmistakably Riesling, yet the honeyed notes on the palate might lead some to confuse it with Chenin Blanc. The wine is quite rich upon tasting, but it lacks the bracing acidity that I cherish in a good Riesling.

  • Look, it’s a great wine. If I were out and someone served this to me, I’d be pleased. However, if you’re seeking a wine that closely mirrors the traditional Old World Riesling, this might not be the one. Lastly I want to reiterate its sets a high standard for the region.

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS

A perfect match for pork schnitzel, the wine's acidity and brightness elegantly balance the richness of the pork. I’d also suggest pairing it with Peking duck, as the wine's green notes harmonize with the duck’s richness. Of course, Riesling is always a reliable choice for spicier foods. As for cheese, Havarti would be an excellent selection.

TIBERIO TREBBIANO D’ABRUZZO, ABRUZZO ITALY - 2022

Sight in the Glass: Straw yellow with a hint of green. Exhibits numerous long, fast-moving legs.

On the Nose: Honeydew, yuzu, white flowers, and wet river stones. This wine is truly a joy to smell, offering a rich and complex nose with an abundance of aromas. Additional notes of almond and jasmine add to its allure. I found myself savoring the bouquet of this wine far longer than usual.

Tasting Notes: Rich, oily, and robust, this wine boasts abundant notes of apple and lime. Its full-bodied profile is expertly balanced by a refreshing acidity. The palate reveals layers of wet limestone, accompanied by a persistent hint of pineapple on both the nose and the taste. The wine's delightful saltiness enhances its complexity and stimulates the appetite.

TASTING NOTES

PRODUCER NOTES

Nestled beneath the majestic Majella and Gran Sasso mountains in Abruzzo, Italy, Azienda Agricola Tiberio blends old-world charm with a new-world vision. The journey began in 2000 when Riccardo Tiberio stumbled upon an ancient plot of 60-year-old Trebbiano Abruzzese vines, a rarity in the region. Realizing the value of these vines, Riccardo set a new course for his family.

With deep wine industry knowledge and an understanding of Abruzzo's terroir, Riccardo created the 31-hectare Tiberio estate. He carefully chose indigenous varieties like Montepulciano d'Abruzzo, Trebbiano Abruzzese, Aglianico, Pecorino, and Moscato di Castiglione to match the land's unique soils.

In 2008, Riccardo's children, Cristiana and Antonio, took over. Cristiana, a chemistry graduate with extensive international experience, became the winemaker. Her training in Champagne, the Loire Valley, the Mosel, and Chablis equipped her to produce wines with remarkable structure and minerality.

Tiberio stands out for its dedication to expressing Abruzzo's terroir. Its old vine Trebbiano Abruzzese produces wines of great depth and complexity. Cristiana's expertise results in mineral-rich whites and vibrant reds that have earned global recognition.

From Cugnoli's hillsides to the world stage, Tiberio winery showcases the impact of vision, expertise, and love for the land. Each vintage redefines Italian winemaking, one exceptional bottle at a time.

WINE RATINGS

  • This wine offers an astonishing complexity, especially given its retail price of around $30. As previously highlighted, this region still offers remarkable affordability, and this bottle is a prime example. It's a show-stopping white wine at an incredible price, sure to impress even seasoned wine professionals. The fact that it comes from vines over 65 years old makes it even more exceptional.

  • This wine possesses the expected weight of a Trebbiano but surprises with its remarkable energy and power. The hint of salinity is a pleasant touch, although it's not typically the standout feature of a Trebbiano Abruzzese from this region.

  • This wine is one I could savor over several days, simply for the pleasure of experiencing it again and again. What I love most is that it's a delightful deviation from a more traditional Trebbiano. Typically, I wouldn't gravitate towards Trebbiano, but Tiberio is an exception that I'll certainly seek out.

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS

Asparagus salad with radicchio and arugula. Fried smelt when they're in season with a subtle garlic aioli. Or lastly, Linguine alle Vongole would make a delightful meal. For cheese, I recommend pecorino or any aged variety that offers that satisfying tyrosine or salty salty crunch.

ISOLE E OLENA CHIANTI CLASSICO, TUSCANY- 2020

Sight in the Glass: A dark, sultry color that captivates with shades of purple and deep red. The prominent tearing suggests a medium-plus alcohol content.

On the Nose: Herbaceous brush, subtle bramble, tart red fruit, and a hint of damp wood or decaying forest floor. There’s an elusive note that invites you to keep sniffing—perhaps a whisper of nutmeg or cinnamon. All I want to do is keep inhaling this wine's captivating aroma.

Tasting Notes: Vibrant and lively, this wine offers an immediate quenching sensation on the palate, complemented by incredibly well-integrated tannins. It features notes of ripe strawberries, tobacco, and Luxardo cherry. The alcohol level is medium-plus but would benefit from being tasted at cellar temperature. After chilling the wine slightly, I'm pleased to report that the alcohol becomes more subdued, allowing the tart fruit flavors to shine through.

TASTING NOTES

Tucked in the heart of the Chianti Classico region, Isole e Olena has been a beacon of winemaking excellence since its founding in 1956 by Francesco De Marchi. Located near Castellina in Chianti, the estate spans 56 hectares (138 acres) of vineyards, lying at altitudes between 350 to 450 meters (1,148 – 1,476 feet). These vineyards benefit from the unique galestro and marly schist soils, which impart distinctive characteristics to the wines produced here. In 1975, Francesco's son, Paolo De Marchi, took the reins, ushering in a new era marked by innovation and quality improvement. With his background in agricultural studies, Paolo embarked on extensive experiments aimed at enhancing the performance of local grape varieties, particularly Sangiovese, and meticulously mapping the estate's terroir.

Under Paolo's vision, Isole e Olena became a pioneering force in the renaissance of the Chianti Classico region. This commitment to quality reached a milestone in 1980 with the first bottling of Cepparello, a profound expression of Sangiovese aged in barrique. Initially classified as a "vino da tavola" (table wine), Cepparello quickly gained acclaim as one of the first Supertuscan wines, demonstrating the remarkable character and longevity of Sangiovese from this high-altitude corner of Chianti Classico. Today, Isole e Olena is renowned not only for its authentic and well-balanced Chianti Classico but also for its exceptional single-varietal wines, including Chardonnay, Syrah, and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as its celebrated Vin Santo.

As guardians of a winemaking legacy that spans over six decades, the De Marchi family continues to honor tradition while embracing innovation. The estate's wines, crafted exclusively from its own vineyards, reflect a deep respect for the land and a relentless pursuit of excellence. From the fragrant purity of their Chianti Classico to the groundbreaking Cepparello, Isole e Olena stands as a testament to the enduring allure and potential of Chianti Classico wines

PRODUCER NOTES

WINE RATINGS

  • If you're looking to purchase one of the finest Chianti Classico wines, $40 is quite reasonable compared to top-tier wines from other regions. It's an excellent value, making it a wonderful gift or a special occasion bottle, and even a perfect daily choice for the more affluent. I would be very curious to see how a few bottles age in the cellar over the next couple of years

  • This wine feels denser compared to others from the same appellation, with an alcohol content of 14%, higher than the typical 13.5% for Chianti Superiore. While this seems intentional and I do enjoy the wine, it does feel a bit out of place for its category.

  • When a wine evokes memories and emotions, it is truly something special. I first tasted this wine three months ago (currently 4/21/24) and was incredibly impressed. The wine has remained consistently excellent, and I can only imagine it has an incredible journey ahead in its lifespan.

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS

Aged cheddar or firm cheeses like Parmesan, with their robust flavors, pair beautifully with this wine. Grilled ribeye, succulent lamb, or other richly flavored game meats. Meat and tannin is always a match made in heaven and why would this be any different?

THE MONARCH CHALLENGE by RAEN ROSE, NORTH COAST - 2023

TASTING NOTES

Sight in the Glass: A light pink color with a subtle golden hue. It exhibits significant tearing, but the movement is rather slow.

On the Nose: A subtle dusty aroma mingles with notes of strawberries, stone fruits, and raspberries on the nose, accompanied by a hint of something vegetal. The alcohol presence is well-balanced and not overpowering.

Tasting Notes: A subtle dusty aroma mingles with notes of strawberries, stone fruits, and raspberries on the nose, accompanied by a hint of something vegetal. The alcohol presence is well-balanced and not overpowering.

PRODUCER NOTES

Located in the heart of Sonoma County, RAEN Winery is not just a place where exceptional wines are crafted; it is a testament to the harmonious relationship between nature and agriculture. Founded with a profound respect for the environment, RAEN Winery has always believed that sustainable farming practices are essential to producing wines that are not only exquisite but also responsible. This philosophy paved the way for the inception of The Monarch Challenge, an inspiring initiative aimed at fostering a deeper connection between our communities and the natural world.

The Monarch Challenge seeks to enlighten, encourage, and connect our communities to farm and live in unison with nature, giving back to the delicate circle of life. Inspired by the seemingly small yet profound impact of a butterfly's wing, this initiative underscores the interconnectedness of all living things—trees, bees, plants, and fauna—all contributing to a sacred ecological balance. By promoting organic farming practices and supporting environmental organizations like the Xerces Society and the Sonoma County Wildlife Rescue, The Monarch Challenge embodies RAEN Winery's commitment to a cleaner, healthier, and more brilliant planet.

One of the shining embodiments of this mission is the 2023 Monarch Challenge Rosé. This coastal blend, meticulously crafted from RAEN Pinot Noir and old vine Grenache, is sourced from organically farmed vineyards. The wine is a vibrant symphony of fresh summer apricot, sun-kissed white peach, wild raspberry, and red grapefruit, delivering a bright and mineral-laced finish. With every bottle, RAEN Winery not only offers a taste of excellence but also contributes to vital conservation efforts, ensuring that the legacy of The Monarch Challenge continues to flourish and inspire.

WINE RATINGS

  • This wine is raising money for charity, which I greatly respect. It's a serious rosé, a quality not often seen these days. While you could enjoy it casually on a patio, I believe it deserves a more thoughtful experience.

  • If you purchased most rosés, they wouldn't exhibit this level of power and structure. They certainly wouldn't demonstrate such meticulous attention to detail either. While this is indeed a classic rosé, it’s important to highlight the weight and complexity present in this wine, all while maintaining a bright and vibrant palate.

  • Although I don't usually choose rosé, I can see this as a gift I would give someone. At $30, it seems reasonable for a friend's birthday or a housewarming present. It's also commendable that a renowned winery is engaging in such initiatives to give back!

SUGGESTED PAIRINGS

Charcuterie of all sorts for its diversity, it would pair well with many things. Steamed clams with wine and butter to add a complementary salty component. Or lastly baked salmon with its acidity to balance the richness, and Brie or a slightly softer cheese for the perfect pairing.